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May 25, 2012, 04:50:48 AM
 
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Author Topic: Problem with coolant level changing  (Read 588 times)
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Dell Boy
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« Reply #15 on: March 18, 2010, 09:29:12 PM »

Hello Rob, I`ve got heads, overhauled & ready to fit, engines,stripped,checked, overhauled & rebuilt ready to fit, headsets £35.00 or can do the work including new timing belt/oil/filter/Wynn`s/coolant for £180.00. £220.00 if new water pump fitted as well.  Derek.
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Dell Boy - The Rascal Specialist
Rob Morgan
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« Reply #16 on: March 18, 2010, 09:47:57 PM »

How much are the heads?
i've only just done timing belt and water pump
do you do p/x on engines?
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J J 007
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yep


« Reply #17 on: March 18, 2010, 09:56:18 PM »

give joey a try he might be able to help as he does engine rebuilds ect.
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smookin                   those that care don,t matter those that matter don,t care
Dell Boy
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« Reply #18 on: March 18, 2010, 11:22:28 PM »

Hello Rob, I have just spotted you are in Wrexham so a bit far away to sort out. A good flat head with new seals fitted is £100.00. I literally have heaps of engines so part ex. is not strictly necessary but can be done. The logistics are the difficulty due to the distance. Would you not be better to sell your van now, as it is, on ebay & let the Nigerians sort it out. Another solution is to pay about £10.00 for a sealant to add to the water which seals leaking heads. I have used one on my daughters Toyota & it worked. I`ll dig the name out tomorrow. It is not guaranteed to work in every case but I think is worth a try. Derek.
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Dell Boy - The Rascal Specialist
TITCH
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machinerydecals.co.uk


WWW
« Reply #19 on: March 19, 2010, 07:22:24 AM »

Hi Rob,
if it's any help to you, there's a firm in Telford that will reskim & pressure test your head if need?Huh? I can get the number if Telford is easy for you??
Head Techinque is the firm, I have used them in the past, excellent!!!!

Just a thought?Huh
Titch
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Dell Boy
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« Reply #20 on: March 19, 2010, 09:11:30 PM »

The sealing additive is called "K SEAL". Could be worth a try. Derek.
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Dell Boy - The Rascal Specialist
Rob Morgan
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« Reply #21 on: March 21, 2010, 10:12:47 PM »

thanks titch, but i can sort it out locally

derek, i had k-seal in it before the bad weather, because of a watr leak, which turned out to be water pump seal.
as the system has been drained since, should i try some more?
any idea on how it works? or how long it takes to work? would a 10 mile drive seal it?
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Rob Morgan
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« Reply #22 on: March 21, 2010, 10:22:22 PM »

i've just been on k-seals website
i think i'll splash out on a bottle
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>>CHOP<<
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« Reply #23 on: March 22, 2010, 09:20:57 PM »

dont want to pee on your bonfire rob...but i have tried it twice and it aint worked both times.....but ..who knows ? it may work on yours....and its only £7   give it a go....it says on the bottle run engine for 1/2 hour...

your description of the leak is so similar to one ive had in the past ...water is getting into the cylinders...which i think is the worse type of leak for this type of repair... beacause for the k-seal to work it needs "BACK" pressure to force all the particles into the leaking hole/crack to seal it...which in my opinion would work if it was leaking anywhere else ....but as soon as the engine is started the preassure in the cylinders is on the opposit side and it will push the sealing particles back out of the hole/crack...do you see how im thinking...i dont think it will work ...but my fingers are crossed for you.....good luck ...when you get fed up...sell me the van..lol......CHOP
« Last Edit: March 22, 2010, 09:22:41 PM by >>CHOP<< » Logged
Rob Morgan
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« Reply #24 on: March 22, 2010, 10:46:15 PM »

i see where your coming from chop
tomorrow is d-day for me  Huh Tongue Embarrassed Undecided Cry
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Rob Morgan
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« Reply #25 on: March 28, 2010, 01:05:05 PM »

my van is still running!
the rubber in the rad cap was extreamly perished, so i have fitted 1 off a mates car that he isnt using at the mo. i now need a replacement for mine, but i'm not paying the £15 that some robbing git is asking on eBay!
since then, i have topped the engine up whilst running warm (to open thermostat) and i fitted a bit more water in, along with the k-seal. and it seems to be running better.
the van no longer overheats after running for 4-5 mins, and it started the last 3 mornings in a row on its own (with a bit of choke)

the oil is looking ok, with a tiny, and i mean tiny amount of yellowness to it
so for now, i'm going to leave it be, and see what happens
if it behaves, i'll treat the van to an oil service

SO FINGERS CROSSED (again)
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« Reply #26 on: March 28, 2010, 06:21:03 PM »

Good news then Rob. I have small & large radiator caps at £8.00 each plus £1.60 post & packing. Derek.
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Rob Morgan
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« Reply #27 on: March 28, 2010, 06:59:58 PM »

what do you mean by large and small? i thought they were all 1 size?
are they new?
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« Reply #28 on: March 28, 2010, 08:45:06 PM »

Yes, they are new. Late supercarry radiators have a small opening,about 3 cms. Often these radiators are fitted to earlier vans as a replacement. Most vans have a 5 cms. roughly opening with a large cap. Derek.
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Rob Morgan
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« Reply #29 on: April 07, 2010, 03:52:29 PM »

after crossing my fingers and toes, i think my H/G has gone
i had the rad off today (as suggested in previous post) knocked it about a bit to losen any crap on/in it
i then reverse flushed the rad a few times, and some big bits came out
i then put it all back together, filled it up correctly, and went for a spin, and it overheated after about 1-2 mile
whilst out, i went to a radiator refurb place, who quoted me £75+vat for recoring mine
i went home to think about it, but as i got home, it cut out when it was idling

i removed the oil cap, and there is a bit more yellow gunk in there this time (pic to follow)
the heater matrix blows hot air, which eliminates air-lock possibility
water level in expansion bottle goes up and down ok, so rad cap works ok

it was up for sale @ £500, but now i wont get that
i will post lsts of pics on here in a bit. let me know what you all think
« Last Edit: April 07, 2010, 03:54:28 PM by Rob Morgan » Logged

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