new yr new prob!!!

[wightrascal]

hi all

still having starting problems,only starts on her own if she feels like it otherwise needs boost then fires first time everytime  thats so annoying.
what ive done so far:
changed alternator and tested workin great.
checked plugs and leads both ok.
cleaned dizzy and rotor arm.
fitted new earths all round made sure of good contacts.

my next line of enquire is points and condenser. going to check points at weekend should i change condenser if i change points ?.
to cap it all ive now got an occasional jolt and judder as im driving along, does not actually stop me but it scares the wotsit out of me when it happens.
any ideas as to the probable cause
thanx mark

[derrickd]

I understand that there is a ballast resistor inbuilt in the starter motor though not sure why its placed in there, if plugs points etc dont do the trick have the resistor checked out

[Dell Boy]

Sounds like points gap has closed up or condenser is failing.
Gap points at 0.6 m.m. & when fitting condenser clean the distributor till it shines where condenser touches it.

Derek.

[Rascalvan10]

There is a ballast resister in the ignition coil supply wire, it is in fact a resistive cable, approx a metre long. I have never known these cause a problem. ( in over 30 years in the trade, or at least can't remember one giving trouble)
No ballast resister in the starter motor, but there is a ballast resister by-pass supply of 12 volts, which comes from the starter when it is being cranked over. These do cause problems, very common problem. symptoms are: Engine will crank over on the starter but not fire.
If vehicle is push started or rolled down a hill to start, it will usually start ok.
Usually dirty connection on the small feed out terminal from the starter. Not to be confused with the feed in that makes the starter work. This system is not fitted on models that had electronic ignition fitted when new.
Cold weather will cause problems if you don't have the air ducting fitted on the air intake system or you haven't switched to Winter setting on the valve.
Regards Tim

[wightrascal]

hi all
well finally managed to get to work on the van and and have discovered the points had closed right up so trusty feeler guage out i rotated until the contact breaker heel was on one of the cam lobes stuck my feeler gauge in adjusted as ness checked that they opened ok now she will not start at all
wot have i done wrong need help fast as need van for work tomorrow
thanx mark

[derrickd]

ok  get a screw driver and with the ignition on and points closed push the points open and closed to see if any electrical spark jumps  just to check that there is current to the points, check the low tension lead on side of distributor housing, re check that the points do close and open as the engine turns over, Its silly things like forgetting to put rotor arm back in that gets us all, check that when the cap is back in place you have a high tensile spark jumping from coil ht lead at distributor.  have you a spare set of points, may be an idea to slip them on or clean the old points while they are still in place with placing emery cloth between the points and rubbing back and forth allowing the spring to push points together  then do same with a bit of card to get all dust away from points.

[J J 007]

might be a daft question did you put rotor arm back on

[wightrascal]

hi guys
yes i have put rotor arm back and ive cleaned the points up with a bit of emery,but she will till not fire i will go out there after t and check for a spark between contacts
thanks mark

[derrickd]

Dont panic though   thats the worst thing, check for current at every joint with wire and bulb. in the end if no current is going to distributor on the low tensile side   run a wire from battery positive to connector on side of distributor and try it to start, and then to stop   take off the wire till a better fix can be made

Fit a condenser also

[derrickd]

Its a note to us all, these vans should run well on the electrics side but being 25 years old things like leads, points plugs condensers do need to come off and new put on as a job lot to get reliability back into them, cost is dirt cheap as compared to sitting on a dark road somewhere awaiting rescue, rotor arm and cap is also a must i think

[J J 007]

i have gone back to the copper ht leads made my own, up bought some new leads and one was faulty that was the end for me

[wightrascal]

hi all
ive just pulled contact apart with ignition on and im getting a spark, not a strong one but it sparking when i pull them apart
thanx mark

[Pirate]

The ignition system is not the best, the points tend to close up with wear & the condensers are also troublesome.
I have fitted one of these from ebay 200540069425
I bypassed the ballast resistor, fitted new points & fitted the box near the coil,it no longer needs the condenser, nice & simple to fit, only four wires to connect, results are great, van starts first time hot or cold, I wish i had done this years ago, will be fitting one to my Bambi as well.

[wightrascal]

hi allI
Im losing all patience and love for this van now, its just not a joy to own anymore.
i can feel a sell coming on

[Pirate]

Don't give up!
It cost me £30 & an hour of my time to sort it out, before it was a bitch to start, hot or cold.
I found myself looking at newer vans , I have had this one for 5 years now & was thinking it was time to get rid, but it is now running sweet, so i will be keeping it!