Carb Refurb ? worth it or just buy a recon replacement ?

[roysten10]

Hi guys i have just bought a 94 Super Carry, i plan to remove the carb in the next couple of days to refurb it. Is it worth the effort or am i better off buying a reconditioned one from the net ?

cheers

Roy

[TITCH]

If you think it needs fettling with Roy, be careful but yes, always good to have a carb tip top.

Ask Dell Boy if he has one for yours, I had one for my '89 pick up with 60,000+ miles on and the difference was massive!!

Titch

[roysten10]

Ok thank you Titch, The pick up just feels a bit sluggish, and i had this same experience when i had a mini, my dad and i removed it and replaced the reeds, float, jets, gaskets, etc and generally gave it a good clean. after that i did notice a big difference.

Which is why i wanted to know whether it would be more cost effective to get a replacement rather than refurb my current one, as some parts can sometimes be hard to find.

Roy

[J J 007]

i would try derek i asked at my local suzuki dealer about a new carb i think it was £1500 yea i nearly died too lol

[roysten10]

holy smokes 

[Dell Boy]

Leave the carb alone unless you really feel you know what your doing.
You could possibly wreck it.
There are so many gizmos on your model that could not be functioning correctly that it is impossible to advise you where to start.
Read up on your model & really understand how it works before you start fiddleing with bits of it.

Derek.

[spacehopper]

I'd agree with Dell - the late Suzuki carb is a pig (a different beast from the standard Rascal carb) to access. Even removing it will be horrendous, and if you get that far putting it back on will be worse as access to replacing some of the pipework is virtually impossible!

If its running okay then leave well alone.

[Rascalvan10]

Yes , I agree too, I have found a few of the later carbs develop an air leak through the throttle spindle. Very complex system , and even if you find a sensor is faulty, they can be as much as £90 each !!. ( from Suzuki only)
The one that makes the choke stay on until the engine is warm, is over £90+vat.
I might have a used carb if you are interested.
We would want £90+vat for it as these are now rare.
Regards Tim

[J J 007]

i think they are easy to get of but as regards to playing with them leave it to someone who knows what they are doing could be a worse in the long run

[roysten10]

Ok thanks guys i think i may reconsider touching it then  , i did take a look at the airbox today, because i may fit a cone filter, after seeing the airbox and all that it supports i may leave that alone for know aswell  .

Another question. My steering wheel does not line up straight with the wheel, the horn does not work either, so i took off the plastic surround to remove the steering wheel and saw that a little connection wire that come from the wheel for the horn, it is not connected to any thing. Where should it be connected to because i popped a screw driver in there just to complete the circuit to see if the horn was broken, but it worked fine ?

If you didnt understand any of that i can take some pictures tomorrow and post them to show you.

Cheers

Roy

[Rascalvan10]

The little Brass Contact should make contact with the underside of the steering wheel, where a brass contact ring will be found.
You can gently bend this contact to make sure it makes good contact.
Steering wheel can be moved round to align, by removing the wheel and relocating a few splines left or right. This can take a few goes to get right.
Careful when removing the wheel not to smash yourself in the face when you are trying to pull it off. We always leave the nut on a few turns and this stops you smashing the wheel in your face when it finally comes free.
Once the wheel is free, you simply remove the nut and wheel without any trouble.
Regards Tim