lost brake lights??

[yorkshirerider]

hi all, this week is testing the rascal week as i need to know what needs doing when i restore it over the winter

i appear to have no brake lights??? ive checked the bulbs

also sometimes my gears are a lil difficuilt to get in, and the clutch seems fairly high

any ideas on the brake lights??

[rangerman77]

Brake light switch - down under/at the back of the pedal?

[>>CHOP<<]

im going for bad earth....or dodgy connection...

[yorkshirerider]

I'll take a look tommorow thanks guys

Does it have a switch on the pedal somewhere?

[rangerman77]

To be honest, I've never looked at it on a rascal, but generally they're towards the top of the pedal, and to the reatr , and they work on like a plunger that gets pushed in when you press the pedal, which in turn complete the circuit, and this puts the light on.

But like chop says could be a wiring/earthing issue.  Are any of the other rear lights working?

[>>CHOP<<]

sometimes the actual bulb connections fur up..a good clean and light wipe with emry cloth on both bulb and sockets sorts it...

sometimes damp can get into the covers..and multiplugs

but if both lights are not working then check the earths an follow the wires back to the pedal switch ...use a tester if you know how ? for power & continuity...

[>>CHOP<<]

look forward toyour next reply..in ...april/may...have fun

[rangerman77]

Sounds like you're gonna be busy - hope it all goes well 

[yorkshirerider]

Thanks are the engines easy to remove? I'm Hoping to do it on ramps in the garage or is this not possible?

[J J 007]

Easy make sure it is high enough to slide engine out easier to leave crossmember joined to engine,write down what is joined to what and take photo,s if you have not done ir before

[J J 007]

crane no good just a trolley jack and some help 4 bolts hold the engine in and 2 for the gearbox take it out as one unit better if you have 2 trolley jacks but did mine with 1

[>>CHOP<<]

if your gonna strip the engine anyway...and your on your own like i was...then its easier to remove it in three main lumps head/gearbox/block ......

disconnect battery
disconnect/remove exhaust from manifold
disconnect/remove propshaft..(drain gearbox oil)  oil comes out if not kept level
drain water disconnect all hoses
remove center console/gear stick and gear cables and panel section
remove alternator
disconnect choke.throttle cables.clutch cable and fuel pipes..clamp fuel line or drain fuel
disconnect all wires fuelpump..reverse switch..fuel cut off..temp sender and earths
remove air filter and carburettor
remove distributer and starter motor
remove fan and cowling and timing belt cover timing belt and rear cover
remove cylinder head complete with both manifolds
remove gearbox
remove engine block from mountings.....leave crossmember in

this is how i do mine...it makes it much more manageable on your own...it is possible to remove the whole thing but its a heavy awkward lump and you need alot of height to slide it out from underneath

any questions....just ask..........Good Luck

[>>CHOP<<]

If your stripping the engine down then dont worry about the timing ...you will have to set it back up when you re-build the engine...

if your just changing the clutch then ...just remove the gearbox..no need to do anything with engine

im slightly confused as to what you want now....what exactly are you planning..?

[>>CHOP<<]

well why dont you do a compession test first....this will let you know how bad the rings are....

is it burning oil..(bluesmoke) all the time

no need to take engine out to replace valve seals...just take head off....or if you watch some you tube videos its possible to do them without taking head off..?  bit of messing about though ..so maybe better taking head off...you could re-gring valves too...and replace head gasket ans timing belt etc...the list goes on and on

the clutch is easy enough to do...but you will need to make an alighnment tool to do it right ....easy enough to make something...the gearbox is held on to the engine with two main nuts  and the starter motor bolts...and also the 2 littlle 10mm bolts underneath holding the cover plate on it needs to come off

remove the prop shaft and gearbox mounting bolts and disconnect the reversing light switch at the connector...also the speedo cable...undo the 10mm bolt and pull it out...and remember to keep the gearbox level...otherwise the oil pours out from the propshaft hole....on rebuild...dont be tempted to oil the release bearing shaft...as it will clog up with dust...just wipe it clean with a rag

[Dell Boy]

Compression test will not confirm if oil control rings are o.k. When blowing blue smoke the cause is usually stuck oil rings. If the head/plugs have oily carbon on them the oil control rings are not working.
Seal output shaft on gearbox with duct tape or plastic bag & elastic band.

Derek.