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May 22, 2012, 05:10:54 PM
 
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Author Topic: rust  (Read 471 times)
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adamboon
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« on: January 04, 2011, 09:48:54 PM »

will my wheel arches front and rear fail the mot because there all got hols where it has rusted through?
all help is appretiated thanks
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i love my van i have had it since i passed my test Smiley i has made me a bit of money doing tip runs for people and mooving things to other houses.
TITCH
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« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2011, 09:54:27 PM »

It depends how bad and on the tester on the day!
But in fact, albeit not bolted to a chassis, if it's not too close to a structural point of the vehicle it should be able to be a pass, but I wouldn't advise telling him his job.

They aren't too big of a job to do, i cut away most of the bad bits on my pick up, seriously coated any existing bad metal with copious primer and hammerite paint, then..... pop rivited the new ones in place!! They are safe, strong and secure, haven't moved or altered in three years so far!

Regards
Titch
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adamboon
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« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2011, 10:00:22 PM »

its at the front of the rear acches and on the front arches its between the the front of the arch and the post the door hinges are mounted
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i love my van i have had it since i passed my test Smiley i has made me a bit of money doing tip runs for people and mooving things to other houses.
TITCH
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« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2011, 11:31:37 PM »

Yep, very common place for them to go, all the muck from the front wheels splash up there.

The arches, left and right hand are available though, about £40 each I think.
Try TIM@ bedford rascal.com

Titch
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Dell Boy
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« Reply #4 on: January 05, 2011, 09:15:36 AM »

You can get a failure for any substantial rust within 30 centimetres off a seat belt anchorage or a steering gear/suspension mounting.
Very much dependant on the tester. I have seen some horrors that had test certificates.
I have arches in stock.
Derek.
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Dell Boy - The Rascal Specialist
derrickd
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« Reply #5 on: January 14, 2011, 11:56:39 PM »

20 years a coach builder and have all the equipment to repair body work , if you all need help just contact, not out to get rich, just help out with the old vans
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>>CHOP<<
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>>JUST ASK<<


« Reply #6 on: January 15, 2011, 12:08:29 AM »

20 years a coach builder and have all the equipment to repair body work , if you all need help just contact, not out to get rich, just help out with the old vans

cheers derrick...its nice to know ....
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J J 007
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yep


« Reply #7 on: January 15, 2011, 11:00:18 PM »

have to move up your end of the country
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smookin                   those that care don,t matter those that matter don,t care
>>CHOP<<
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« Reply #8 on: January 15, 2011, 11:11:42 PM »

I would even consider bringing the wife...HuhHuh??
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TITCH
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« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2011, 12:32:15 AM »

Now how do we take that Chop?? You saying the wife needs bodywork??
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derrickd
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« Reply #10 on: January 16, 2011, 10:36:34 AM »

Lads   ive never been any good at that type of bodies, im a steel man , practiced and preached, and it probably the reason why im a steel man, gain comfort somewhere...
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>>CHOP<<
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« Reply #11 on: January 16, 2011, 05:03:49 PM »

OK ill leave her at home......YES TITCH haha
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rangerman77
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« Reply #12 on: January 17, 2011, 02:26:40 PM »

Appears I've got similar issues  Cry

We've just been away for the weekend - thought it would do it good to go for a run before the impending MOT.  Despite getting the waxoyl out last year doesn't look like the winters been too kind - the main chassis is fine at the front and back.  But, I noticed in addition to the main chassis legs on the outside between these and the arches are two almost 'mini legs' - if that makes sense - and a couple of holes have appeared.  Also, the inner skin of the front valance also appears to have rusted in the front left hand corner - does anyone know if that would be a failure on its own? 

Apart from the within 30 cm of a mounting point etc is is subjective to the individual testers own decision?  Obviously intend to get it repaired - any ideas on costs of two welded patches say 6" by 3"? My brothers an industrial welder, but by the time I've done the 200 mile round trip to see him its probably cheaper to get it done locally?

Everythings going to have to have a more comprehensive covering of waxoyl - or possibly dinitrol? - this year thats for sure  - roll on the warm weather!!

Cheers

Mark
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Dell Boy
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« Reply #13 on: January 17, 2011, 03:28:04 PM »

A hole or crack in the front chassis member behind the valence is a failure if spotted by the tester. This member has a lot of suspension/steering gear mountings on it.
I generally charge £20.00 for each patch repair to give you a price guide.
Derek.
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rangerman77
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« Reply #14 on: January 17, 2011, 06:33:20 PM »

Hi Derek

Thanks for the info on the pricing - if I wasn't so far away I'd bring it down and let you have a look  Grin.

Its not the actual chassis member that the steering / suspension etc mounts to, but will no doubt find exactly what the man from the ministry thinks on Saturday   Undecided

Bearing in mind the condition of the rest of the truck/romahome its well worth doing and than topping up the rust protection by hand rather than the spraying I did last summer.   

Has anyone got an opionion on the rust proofing products - used waxoyl last time as it was available locally and relatively cheaply - my local hardware emporium does it for £18.00 for 5 litres.  But, I have heard dinitrol and Bilt Hamber products are good?

Sorry, don't mean to hijack the thread - but sure all would be interested.

Cheers

Mark

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